Days 5,6,7 - St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona

My Camino hike is underway!

It's been several days since my last post, so this is going to be a bit of a catch up. I was hoping to blog every day, but the realization of what it actually takes to do this hike is sinking in. It's physically & emotionally exhausting, yet exciting & exhilarating at the same time. I've hiked for 3 days now, and even though I had the best of intentions, there simply hasn't been enough time & energy left at the end of the day. But now I'm at my first rest point and am excited to share my journey so far.

It's 6am on April 11th as I write this from Pamplona. I'm sitting in the lobby of my alburgue, which is located in the square just across from the Cathedral de Santa Maria la Real, which is in the heart of the ancient city of Hemingway and the Running of the Bulls. I can't wait to further explore the city today before I continue my hike tomorrow.

Here's a quick summary and overview of how I got here:

Day 5 (1st day of my hike) - St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles - 16.2 miles

Day 6 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri - 13.9 miles

Day 7 - Zubiri to Pamploma - 13 miles

All in all, I've hiked 43 miles, an average of slightly over 14 miles a day. And that doesn't count my mileage outside of the hike. My iphone fitness app says I've walked 51 miles during this time, or 17 miles a day. Not bad for a 59-year old guy who's never hiked more than 10 miles in one day! I'm sore, but I feel good. I'll need to keep up a similar pace (maybe slightly less) to stay on track and complete my Camino journey on schedule.

Beyond giving a basic overview of where and how far I've hiked, it's been a struggle to figure out how to share the story of my journey, as there has been a whirlwind of thoughts & emotions going through my head with each step I take. I've never walked the Camino before this; but I have talked to several people who have; and have also done a lot of googling, reading & YouTubing to get an understanding. But I'm realizing that you never really know until you experience it yourself, and everyone's Camino is their own.

My overall impression of the Camino so far is that it's a constant ebb & flow of humanity - a community of pilgrims from all over the world, of all persuasions, young & old, pursuing their own journey for their own reasons. Over the 3 days I've hiked, I would guess I've encountered one thousand or so pilgrims, maybe more, maybe less, it's simply too hard to tell. You meet & hike with certain people, fall behind, catch up, meet new people, and repeat it again. I've met people from the U.S. (although we're definitely in the minority) Australia, France, South Korea, Mexico, England, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Germany, Brazil, Latvia, Serbia, France, Ireland, Spain, and I'm certain many other countries but I simply didn't ask. The oldest is 73, the youngest a baby (mom & dad are doing the Camino with one of those fancy running strollers!). At times, you're hiking with one other person, a small group, or dozens in a pack, while at other times you're all alone. It just ebbs & flows.

Beyond this sea of pilgrims, the individual connections I've made with people along the way have been a treasure. Just like in everyday life, some are simply 'passing by', others are casual, while others are much deeper. The deeper connections are the ones that have really made my Camino special so far. I'll give a few examples.

Thirty minutes into my first hike on a steep uphill climb, I met a couple from Wisconsin. We instantly hit it off. We hiked and chatted for the next several hours up and into the incredibly scenic Pyrenees mountains (think Sound of Music). We shared stories of our family and talked about our reasons for doing the Camino, and in much greater depth than you normally would with someone you just met. It was amazing how similar our stories were! The conversation and deep connection helped us forget about the incredibly difficult, 3-hour uphill 2,600 foot climb we did together. We arrived in the small village of Orisson, which is where they were stopping for the night. We continued our conversation over lunch and a beer, then I went on my way solo. We've since texted back and forth & connected on Facebook, and I hope to see them again along the Camino.

Then there's the elderly gentleman from England. I met him while I was walking with the couple from Wisconsin. We were walking on a narrow road where cars were traveling, sometimes a bit too fast. He made a point to give us some advice that when a car does come by, that you turn your backpack away from the road, since a mirror from one of the speeding cars hit his backpack on the way past! He eventually stopped and said that he could only walk a hundred meters at a time, and needed to stop for about 30 seconds to rest & recover. We parted ways, and given his pace I figured it was the last time I'd see him on my journey. Not so. We have since met several times, as he would continue his pace like the little engine that could, and he would pass me when I would take longer breaks, and he would chug on. This continued several times, where he would catch up with me, and vice versa. We would have 'lovely little chats' (think English accent) each time. The last time I saw him was near the end of day 2 of my hike, where he caught up to me at a beer truck (yes, up in the mountains in what seemed like the middle of nowhere!). We used that time to share stories of our family, and why we're doing the Camino. I suspect I'll see him along the Camino again, as I know he's hiking all the way to Santiago.

Next is the family from Ireland, which I'll call my new Irish Family. As I noted in a previous post, the 1st day of my hike from St Jean Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles was 17 miles, about 80% sharply uphill, with the last 20% descending sharply downhill. Near the end, about halfway through the downhill, were 2 younger gentleman, one holding the hand of an elderly woman. When I caught up to them, I said "you must be 2 brothers hiking with your mother on the Camino?". "Why yes, we are!" (think Irish accent). The fact that we even came upon each other at this time was pure fate. As I've since learned, we both descended down this particular path, which had been closed a few days earlier due to weather conditions, somewhat 'in error'. Most other pilgrims took an alternative path along the road which had a more gently sloping downward elevation. We hit it off instantly. I learned that they were an Irish family on holiday: mom, 2 brothers, 2 sisters and another traveling companion. After going sharply uphill for 13 miles, a sharp downhill slope might sound easy, but it's almost more difficult. You're exhausted from the uphill climb, then you're using an entirely different set of muscles. Similar to my story with the Wisconsin couple, the great conversation we shared almost made me forget my exhaustion and the pain in my legs. Since our initial meeting, we stayed in the same alburgue for 2 nights, sharing dinner, drinks and even Irish folk songs at the pub. I'll be spending more time with them during today's 'rest & explore' day in Pamplona.

Beyond the people, a big part of my journey so far can be summed up in one word: LOGISTICS. It's not as simple as grabbing your stuff in the morning, heading out for a hike and checking into your room at the end of the day. Other than my first 2 nights in St Jean Pied de Port, I had nothing pre-planned, so everything I do has to be executed "on the fly".

Recall that I have my backpack, along with an extra suitcase, mainly because I have my c-pap machine. I'm certainly not lugging my extra suitcase along with me when I hike; rather, it needs to get to my next destination each day, which is accomplished by using a luggage transport service. The process is to complete some information on an envelope, insert the necessary amount of money (typically 6-8 Euro), leave it at the reception by 8am, and your bag will be transported to your next albergue by the time you get there.

All sounds simple enough, right? Not necessarily. Before you can accomplish the baggage transport, you need to book a room, so you know where your baggage needs to get to. There's plenty of information available to book a room, including great Camino apps, but rooms aren't always available. There are a lot of pilgrims competing for space, so you may need to reach out to several places before you can find a room.

All doable so far, but there are further circumstances with complicate the logistics. First & foremost is the language barrier. You can make phone calls, but communication is sometimes very difficult; apps & websites work too, but they don't always translate into English so well, if at all. I'm finding that "Google Translate" might be my best friend along the way!

Another hurdle is simply timing, coupled with the many tasks that need to be executed. Over my first 3 days, I arrived at my destinations between 1:30 and 5:30pm. The later you arrive, the less time you have to do the following:

- check in

- settle into your room

- unpack your gear

- wash your clothes (I've hand-washed every day so far)

- line dry your clothes (they're not always dry in the morning!)

- take a shower (showers are limited, so you have to sometimes fight for time)

- get to dinner

- take a rest (if you're lucky enough to get everything done)

- and per above, don't forget about booking the next night's room and arranging for luggage transport!

- making sure you have enough plug-ins, and you can charge your phone, computer, etc

- prepare for bed

Once again, all these tasks by themselves are pretty straightforward, but when you need to get all of them done, you're exhausted, AND everything needs to get done by strictly enforced times (dinner at x hour - don't be late or you're out of luck; alburgue doors locked by 9 or 10pm; silence and in bed by 10pm), it can be quite the challenge! It's been a quick and steep learning curve, but something that I'm getting better at with each passing day!

Now, imagine it's morning. Same thing for many of the tasks, but in reverse. Re-pack your bags, arrange your backpack, get your extra bag packed and to the pick-up area (not always right down the hall), wash up, get to breakfast, set out on your hike. Once again, timing can be tight., Wake-up is typically 6am, breakfast 7-7:30am, and check-out by 8-9am, all strictly enforced.

The backdrop of all of this are the accommodations themselves, the alburgues, which so far is what I've decided to use. They are essentially dormitories, with multiple beds (sometimes bunks) in the same room, and co-ed. It is certainly something I've had to get used to. Living with people you don't know, sharing sleeping space, bathrooms, showers, meals, etc is something I haven't experienced since college, other than fishing trips, cabin weekends, etc with my buddies. It can all be uncomfortable, and sometimes a little tense; but I'm getting used to it! I plan to continue to use the alburgues for the majority of the rest of my journey, but will slip in a private room at a few stops along the way for more peace, quiet and alone time.

Despite all the challenges and exhaustion, I've loved everything about my journey so far. I truly am trying to put myself in the shoes of all the pilgrims that have done the Camino since the 9th Century, and with that in mind, I think I have it pretty easy and wouldn't change a thing!

Now a bit more about my hikes. I'll be brief with my words, and hopefully let all my pictures tell the story.....

Day 5 - St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

As I said in a previous post, a 'beast' of a hike. 16 miles total, with a steep uphill climb out of St Jean Pied de Port to an elevation of 4,600 feet, followed by a steep downhill descent to an elevation of 3,200 feet. The uphill climb was through and around various mountain peaks, with incredible 360 views of the valley below and snow-capped mountains in the distance. The initial ascent out of St Jean Pied de Port was on a fairly busy, paved road, so you had to navigate passing cars, and sometimes passing animals. The cars mostly disappeared past Orisson, but there were still a few that travelled the one-lane road. Sheep, cows, donkeys and horses were scattered across the landscape. Dogs and cats greeted us along the way. Each time you went around the next peak, you thought it was the last, but it wasn't. The path ultimately turned off the paved road to a rocky path that ultimately crossed into Spain (where there was a well-deserved water spout!) and into a gravel path through the woods. More and more uphill, more beautiful 360-views, and ultimately to the peak! I felt like I had conquered the beast, only to descend down the steep hill where I began to feel the sting on muscles that hadn't been used up to that point. That path was mostly through a thick, mature forest, which was a welcome break from the uphill climb with no shade in the hot sun. While it hurt almost more to go downhill, it was much faster. I started my hike at 8am, and it was 5:30pm when I reached my destination, an ancient monastery since converted to an albergue for pilgrims called Albergue de Roncesvalles. Definitely a welcome sight after a long, grueling day!

Some pics from the day.....

And I'm on my way out of St Jean Pied de Port.

Bad estimate. It took me 9 1/2 hours, including a 1 hour lunch.

And the uphill climb begins

Greeters along the way.

My first real pilgrim connection along the way, the couple from Wisconsin.

Incredible views along the way.

A well-deserved beer (and lunch) about 3 hours in.

Am I at the top yet? NO.

The Virgin Mary and baby Jesus looking over the valley, and the pilgrims along the way.

Finally off the paved road and into Spain. The most wonderful water fountain I've ever seen! I was parched and needed to replenish my water. This is near where I crossed into Spain.

Still trying to find the top.

Some never finish their Camino journey. RIP pilgrim!

Almost to the top. Beautiful snow-capped peaks in the distance.

I made it to the the top! It's gotta be all easy downhill from here!

I found a small patch of snow at the top, so I celebrated by making a snowman on the way marker.

Almost there.

Yeah, it's all downhill from here.

Needed to apply a little first aid to my tired feet.

First sight of my new Irish family. Holding mom's hand.

I made it! Had to put my tired feet in the cold mountain stream before checking into the alburgue.

My sleeping quarters. Lower right bunk. Notice the c-pap.

First thing you do in all alburgues is check your hiking books at the door.

Alburgue de Roncesvalles.

Day 6 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Breakfast in Roncesvalles at 7:30am sharp, and out the door by 8am. After the the first grueling day of hiking, I was a little nervous how things would go, but I felt 'great' and ready to go in the brisk high 40 degree weather. The route didn't have severe elevation changes like the previous day; rather it was a more gradual downhill run through small towns, farmland, and periodic forest. Overall, a much different day than the previous.

Some pics from the day.....

Only a short 790 km to Santiago as I started my day in Roncesvalles.

I followed a couple from Montana early on in my hike. They stayed at the same alburgue as me in St Jean Pied de Port, but they left a day earlier and went the alternative 'Valcarlos' route on day 1 of their Camino hike; an example of ebb & flow of pilgrims along the Camino. Notice they're holding hands. Sorry Sara, I love you, but if we ever do the Camino together, I will not be holding your hand for 600 miles!

Hiking down narrow streets through small towns.

Entering farmland.

Companions along the way.

Heading through the woods between small towns.

First morning break for an espresso.

Spanish countryside farmer - such a perfect picture of the surroundings!

Such incredible houses in the small villages!

Back into the countryside.

And into the woods.

There are bikers on the Camino. I witnessed an accident where one biker went off the edge of the trail and down a steep embankment. Another did a face plant when he braked behind the first accident. Everyone was alright in the end.

Look who I ran into again - my new Irish family. There are 2 sisters, but I still haven't seem them. Are they for real?

Roadside graveyard.

Another memorial for a fallen hiker. RIP pilgrim!

Farmers share their land with the pilgrims.

Shells sometimes point the way of the Camino.

More companions along the way.

I'm always a sucker for a beer truck in the middle of nowhere. This is where I re-united with the older gentleman from England and had a nice chat, from a previous blog post.

A welcome break - beer, cashews, water, and lemonade.

Back on the trail.

Some interesting geology along the trail leading down into Zubiri.

Made it to Zubiri.

Had to cool my feet in the ice cold water once again before checking in to my alburgue.

My place for the night...Albergue El Palo De Avellano in Zubiri

My sleeping quarters and common bathroom.

Guess who I ran into again? My new Irish family stayed at the same alburgue. We shared dinner together and later sang Irish folk songs at the pub next door. The sisters are for real!

Making sure my bags are ready for transport to Pamplona in the morning.

Day 7 - Zubiri to Pamplona

I'm writing this update several days after the hike actually happened, so details may not be quite the level I'd like them to be. Ultimately, I'll let the pictures do the talking. The bottom line is that it should have been the easiest hike of my first 3 days, with less elevation, but it truly kicked my ass. By the time I reached Pamplona, I was a zombie and ready for a rest day. Just like my guide book said, this is the time when all the initial aches and pains start adding up, and you really start feeling it - which was spot on.

It really was a beautiful hike, winding through and around the Rio Arga river from Zubiri to the city of Pamplona, passing several small villages along the way. For this particular portion of my journey so far, the sound of the Camino was 'running water'. I continued to connect with people that I had already met, and encountered several new pilgrims along the way. I had left Zubiri at 8am, and with the beautiful scenery and soothing sound of running water, I was feeling physically good and thinking that I had settled in. But as time passed, I started to feel the cumulative aches and pains of having set all-time hiking records for the past few days. When I reached the suburbs of Pamplona, and still being several miles from my ultimate destination, I was hurting. The last several miles was a death march. My sole mission was to get to Pamplona and simply be done for the day. At one particular point, a woman that I had connected with several times along the route caught up with me and began chatting like we were long lost friends. I had to ask her if we had already met before. I've since learned that virtually every other pilgrim experienced the same thing. The day was hot, so I suspect it had something to do with the heat, but I also think it had something to do with the being disoriented by transitioning from the country into the suburbs, then the city.

Things did change dramatically for the better, once I reached Pamplona, checked into my alburgue, got settled, rested, and began to explore the city. I love the countryside, but am definitely energized by city life. Pamplona has an incredible energy that made me really excited to simply catch my breath and see what the city had to offer on a rest day.

Here are some pics from the day, and first night in Pamplona.....

Heading out at 8am, over the river and to the woods, to Pamplona we go.

Starting along the trail with my fellow pilgrims.

The next small village in the distance

Came upon this horse who literally was stuck in the mud. Somebody did call emergency - hope they got him out. Poor guy!

Sharing the Camino trail with bikers.

And with other friendly critters.

Love the artwork and graffiti on the old buildings along the way.

Lots of greeting committees along the way.

The sound of running water.

A welcome riverside lunch stop along the way. Lots of pilgrims felt the same way. Cool artwork & paraphernalia all over.

Back on the road, literally. Pilgrims oftentimes have to walk along major highways. It can be a little unnerving.

A local fisherman proudly showing me his catch, a trout.

Through another small village. More greeters. Love the architecture.

Another fallen pilgrim. RIP.

This is where the trail turns away from the river valley and heads up the 'Stairway to Heaven' on the way to Pamplona. This is where I started feeling the aches & pains catching up! Just prior to this, I had taken my hiking boots off and administered first aid for the first time. Starting to get blister hot spots.

In all the research I did about the Camino, never once did I hear about any couches to rest on along the way?!?

The Camino isn't always hiking through the wilderness. The route takes us along some major highways.

Crossing back over the river in the town of Villava. The old bridges are so beautiful and majestic. This is a suburb of Pamplona, so we're almost there right?

Sidewalks lined by Arizona Sycamore trees. So cool how they grow together!

Classic movies, Spanish style......

First sight of Pamplona off in the distance. I thought we were closer?!?!

Finally to Pamplona. Just outside the old city walls. Now I have to find out how to get up there!

Found the gate.

I'm in! Love the narrow cobblestone streets!

Made it to my alburgue. Here's the view from the front door, the majestic Catedral de Santa Maria la Real, built from 1387 to 1525. It's not terribly impressive from the outside, but the inside is incredible! More on that later.

My sleeping quarters. Bottom bunk in a 4 bunk pod. I ended up staying 2 nights. Fortunately, there was no one in any of the other bunks for either night, so I had room to spread out...a luxury!! (ignore the finger)

After checking in and washing up, I started to explore the city. This is a shot looking back towards my alburgue and the cathedral. Time to find a cold beer.

So I'm sitting just outside a local bar, drinking a cold beer and soaking it all in. A waitress from the next bar walks out, and grabs something from a crack in the wall. I was thinking it was a key or something that she had stashed. Nope - a cigarette. Nice break room/designated smoking area!

Look who I ran into again - my new Irish family!

Love the pinxto scene. Bread hor d'ouerves with all sorts of different toppings that you grab off the bar. Tasty and cheap. And great wine too!

Time for bed. I can't wait to explore Pamplona tomorrow! I love this city already!