Days 28 thru 35 - Leon to Sarria

Here's a summary of the 5th phase of my Camino journey:

Day 28 - Leon to San Martin Del Camino - 15.8 miles

Day 29 - San Martin Del Camino to Astorga - 15.0 miles

Day 30 - Astorga to Foncebadon - 15.7 miles

Day 31 - Foncebadon to Ponferrada - 16.8 miles

Day 32 - Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo - 15.5 miles

Day 33 - Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias - 12.2 miles

Day 34 - Las Herrerias to Triacastela - 18.1 miles

Day 35 - Triacastela to Sarria - 11.1 miles

Total Phase 5 - Leon to Sarria - 120.2 miles

Phase 4 - Burgos to Leon - 112.3 miles

Phase 3 - Lograno to Burgos - 77.2 miles

Phase 2 - Pamplona to Lograno - 60.6 miles

Phase 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona - 43.1 miles

Total Journey So Far - St Jean Pied de Port to Sarria - 413.4 miles

Average daily hike = 15.3 miles over 27 days of hiking

Miles to go to reach Santiago de Compostella - 71.8 miles

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As I write this update, I've just completed day 30 of my journey, which is 3 days into the stretch from Leon to Sarria. Some quick impressions so far, but I'll certainly fill in more details later.....

- Day 28 from Leon to San Martin Del Camino was a continuation of the Meseta. Mostly straight, flat, and not so exciting landscapes. A tough day.

- Day 29 from San Martin Del Camino to Astorga was a return to the green, lush rolling hillsides and more charming towns. Maybe it was the effect of finally getting past the grueling Maseta, but it was one of the favorite days of my entire journey!

- Day 30 was another beautiful hike, and one that started the climb back up into the mountains. A tough hike, particularly the steep climb for the last several miles, but what beautiful views from up high!

- Day 31 will be a somber one, where I reach the Cruz de Ferro, the place where pilgrims lay down stones they've carried along their journey, to signify a laying down of their burdens, or in remembrance of someone or something. I'm hoping to leave early to arrive one hour ahead of sunrise, to beat the crowds, and to simply let the moment soak in slowly, before laying down my stones. After another brief climb, the majority of the day will be a steep descent down to the town of Ponferrada.

I'll wait to describe what lies ahead for me beyond Ponferrada, as I really haven't thought about it yet, so more to come.........

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update as of May 9th, and FINALLY finished on May 13th!!

It's been awhile since I've updated my blog posts. Once again, the daily grind of hiking and the logistics that come with it, make it difficult to keep up. So as I sit here today, I'm currently in my alburgue, on a 'rest & explore' day 36 in Sarria, which is the last major city on the Camino prior to Santiago de Compostela.

As I sat over breakfast this morning, I realized that I had passed a few important milestones on my journey. First, I've been on the Camino for exactly one month. It was April 8th when I walked out the gates of St Jean Pied de Port to begin the day 1 steep climb upwards towards Roncesvalles. Also, according to my iphone fitness app, yesterday was the day that I passed the 500-mile and 1-million step marks. Over the last 31 days, I've averaged 16.3 miles and 33,027 steps, which equates to 505 miles and 1,023,837 steps! (FYI, these mile calculations are larger than the ones I quote in my summary above as they include the additional steps & miles I take after hiking, and also my 'rest & explore' days in the major cities). Not bad for an old, retired fart!

But the reality is that these are just numbers, they only tell the story of the physical nature of hiking the Camino. Don't get me wrong, the hiking part of it is hard, it's a grind, it plays on your mind, and certainly on your body; but what I've learned is that it's not what the Camino is all about. It's really about the journey as a whole, the hiking plus the connections you make along the way, each person with a common purpose of getting something from the Camino, but all experiencing their own unique journey. And phase 5 of my Camino journey was no exception!

As I think back on days 28 thru 35, I think I can best summarize it with a quote that I wrote in Frederica's journal. Frederica is a grad student from Denmark, who is doing some 'field work' on Catholicism and the Camino. She's keeping a journal where's she's asking fellow pilgrims to write down what they've learned on the Camino, what the Camino has meant to them, their experience on the Camino. My response (as best as I can remember the exact wording).....

"The Camino is an acceleration of thoughts, feelings, emotions, experiences, human connections, triumphs & tragedies, that would otherwise take a lifetime in our normal, everyday lives."

It's not that this has been a new revelation during the past week; rather, it's something that has accumulated since the beginning of my journey, and which has been further cemented through more, and deeper, experiences that this incredible Camino has to offer. Stunning hikes through beautiful landscapes, and magical towns & villages. Being the recipient of some of the most genuine, heartfelt hospitality of the Spanish people, the local townspeople randomly along the Camino route, the shopkeepers, and the Alburgue hosts. The pain, suffering, tragedies & triumphs of my fellow pilgrims, as well as my own. Connecting with new pilgrims from around the world, and re-connecting on a deeper level with pilgrims that I previously met; sharing our stories and our 'why the Camino?' And once again, all of this on a deeper, more accelerated level than what you would normally experience in an entire lifetime. The Camino is real life on steroids, and I've loved every minute of it!

First, the hike itself. Phase 5 covered a total of 8 days. The first day, or day 28, from Leon to San Martin Del Camino was basically an extension of the Maseta. Generally flat & straight through towns & villages that were run-down, industrial, and simply not that exciting. There were some hints of what was to come, but overall nothing special. Starting on day 29, and all the way through day 35 on my way into Sarria, the hiking was incredible! The landscape ranged from gently rolling hills, to high mountain tops, to deep valleys; steep inclines & declines; through vineyards, farms, fields, and high mountain paths lined with wildflowers of all kinds & colors; along cold, fast-running mountain streams & waterfalls; through charming towns & villages; and greeted all along the way by cows, goats, sheep, roosters, chickens, dogs & cats. It was all a welcome journey after the boring landscape of the Maseta, and served as an incredible back-drop for everything that I experienced. You'll get a further sense of the beautiful landscape from my pictures below.

Next, the hospitality. This is truly one of the things that has been an eye opener for me on this journey, and it's one of the things that I really want to bring home with me, somehow, someway. I've never felt so welcomed, made to feel so special. It's a way of life for people along the Camino. It's made me appreciate the people back home who are great hosts...my wife Sara, my buddies Tony (& Linda) & PK, my sister Karla, among others. They already have & live the Camino hospitality spirit. I hope to do the same.

A few examples.....

Gumersindo Perez Sanchez in the village of Villares de Orbigo. It was almost noon on day 28 as I was passing through this small village. There was a weird & creepy looking mannequin on a chair as I passed by a small shop. Most people looked in and passed by, but I noticed that his shop was filled with pictures all along the walls, and he also had some snacks. So even though I had recently stopped for a mid-morning breakfast, I thought I would stop. As I was looking around, he asked me if I wanted a cup of coffee. I said sure, and has he went into the back room, I noticed a picture on the wall where he was posing with a few pilgrims, and he was wearing a Vikings t-shirt! I pulled up some pictures on my phone and I shared with him some pictures of me wearing my Randy Moss viking jersey. After several minutes, he said my coffee was ready and invited me into the back room to sit down. He poured the coffee, then proceeded to cut some bread, and some cheese. He then asked if I wanted jamon (ham). Given that I had just eaten, I reluctantly said yes. He proceeded to walk outside to somewhere, and shortly brought back a rack of dried ham, where he cut a half-dozen thin slices off the rack. He then asked if I wanted Chorizo, and some other type of beef sausage. Despite my attempts to say 'just a little', he filled my plate. Once I was done eating, he brought me back into the main room, where he opened a chest and showed me letters, pictures & paraphernalia from pilgrims that had visited him in the past. I was in heaven. It was as if I was his one special customer, and all attention was on me. The amazing thing about this place is that it was a 'donativo', meaning there are no prices on anything. You simply pay what you can, and what you feel it was worth. Needless to say, Gummersindo got a nice donation! I took a few selfies with him and I was on my way. What an incredible, special experience, one that I'll never forget!

Patricia was my albergue host in the town of Astorga. She was originally from Brazil, had previously hiked the Camino, and had such a profound experience that she moved to Spain to start her own albergue and host pilgrims. Many of the albergues along the Camino are very 'primitive' - basic dorm-like rooms, basic bath & shower facilities, with low to medium construction quality and decor throughout. Patricia's albergue was more like a home. While it was still dorm-style, there were comfortable sleeping areas (no bunks), nice showers and bathrooms, inviting seating & lounge areas, and nice artwork and other decor throughout. When I first arrived to the albergue, I was busily trying to reserve an albergue in the next town, in order to know where my extra bag was going to be transported. After several unsuccessful attempts and"we're full's", Patricia was kind enough to get on the phone to call several albergues, until she was able to secure me a room! In the evening, Patricia cooked me & my fellow pilgrims an incredible Brazilian meal. Just prior to serving dinner, she came to our table to tell us her story. Before moving to Spain to run the albergue, she worked with people who had drug and alcohol dependencies, and so she named her albergue "So Por Hoje", meaning "just this day". People with dependency issues have to live one day at a time, or "just this day". Likewise, pilgrims on the Camino simply live one day at a time, one step at a time. Very heartfelt, and powerful stuff.

Juan was my albergue host in the town of Villafranca del Bierzo. My feet were really hurting this particular day of hiking, and especially so over the last 2 hours, where I took a detour through beautiful, hilly wine country, in the heat of the mid-afternoon. So when I got to my albergue, I was particularly sore & tired. Juan greeted me at the reception desk, and the first thing he said to me was "this is your home". And you could tell he meant it. He then proceeded to take me to the dorm room, and showed me my bed. He was particularly proud to show me that he had a real down comforter, and bed & pillowcase covers, something extremely rare in alberges along the Camino....almost like sleeping over at grandma's house! Throughout the evening and into the next morning, he was continually asking me and my fellow pilgrims how we were doing, and showing concern that we were comfortable and enjoying our stay. His mother cooked us a fabulous meal and Juan was sure to be quick to our table to ensure we had everything we needed. In the morning, Juan was up bright and early to serve us coffee and breakfast, all with a smile, and saying 'this is your home'. I made sure to get a selfie with him before I headed out for my day's hike. As I was leaving through the front door, Juan quickly went back inside, then returned to present me with. a 'Buen Camino' bracelet that he tied around my wrist. Making your guests feel special - hospitality at it's finest!

And finally, on my day 35 hike from Triacastela to Sarria, it was a relatively short 12 mile hike, so I had the leisure to go slow and take my time. About halfway through my hike, I went through the small village of Samos, where there was an 'Oasis' rest stop along the way. I came to find out that it was run by a young couple (I didn't catch their names). They were very unassuming & shy, but also very welcoming. They had a variety of 'donativo' foods available, nothing extravagant, and also offered cups of coffee, where they would disappear into their attached house, and bring out the coffee to those pilgrim guests who said yes to their offers. The atmosphere was very welcoming, chill and laid back. The more time I spent in this little Oasis, the more hidden gems and details I discovered. There were sayings of wisdom all around, separate seating areas for gathering, eating, smoking, reading, playing a variety of instruments (yes, I got to play both the guitar and ukulele!), artwork, carving, among other things. There was a doorway that lead out into their backyard, where there was a walking path and a reconstruction of an ancient labyrinth from the area. There was a bed and hammocks to rest on, and a ladder that went up to a small lookout patio. It was all a separate world unto itself along the Camino path! I enjoyed myself so much that I stayed for over an hour, meeting new pilgrims and re-connecting with some familiar ones. Before I left, I made sure to give a generous 'donativo' and thank the lovely young couple, who told me that they were to be married in 3 weeks! Too bad for those several people who peaked in, but simply walked past. They missed a hidden gem!

Regarding the pain, suffering, tragedies & triumphs that I've seen and experienced along the Camino, there have been many! For me personally, nothing major. No tragedies, some minor pain and suffering (mostly sore feet, some small blisters, and a minor case of shin splints); it's been mostly triumphs. The triumph of getting up every morning, hiking 15 miles per day, going through all the necessary chores & logistics, connecting with pilgrims, early to bed, only to get up the next day and do it again!

One other thing about me that was initially a tragedy but turned into a triumph had to do with my c-pap machine. About 1.5 weeks into my journey, my c -pap stopped working, so I began to book more private rooms, but then started to book in the dormitory albergues because there are a lot of snorers, and I would just be another one of them. I told my story to a fellow pilgrim over dinner one night, and she suggested I call the manufacturer to adjust the settings, and it would likely work again. So later that night I did just that. Before calling the manufacturer, I plugged the machine in so that I could explain what was happening, and to adjust the settings. When I plugged the c-pap machine in, it worked! And it's worked ever since! A minor miracle for me, but more of a miracle for my fellow pilgrims, as they don't need to listen to me snore any more!

Regarding my fellow pilgrims, most deal with the same minor pain & suffering. Blisters, sore knees & muscles, shin splints; and most simply fight through it to finish each day. Some issues are bad enough that they need to take extra rest days, or taxi ahead to stay on schedule. While unfortunate, this is just part of the Camino experience.

There was one incident with a pilgrim that was definitely a tragedy. It was an incident that I didn't witness, but a few fellow pilgrims that I had hiked with along my journey did. A woman had a heart attack or stroke at her albergue. There happened to be two nurses staying at the same albergue who administered CPR immediately, but they were unable to revive her. Emergency personnel were called, and came to take her away. No one knows whether the she survived. While along the Camino trail, there are a lot of memorials for pilgrims who have fallen along their journey. I'd hate to think that it happened while I was on the trail, and also that some of my fellow pilgrims had to see & experience it firsthand. Buen Camino pilgrim, I hope you live for another Camino journey!

As far as making connections with people during this phase of my journey, I certainly did that, with pilgrims that I had met earlier in my journey, and also those for the first time. I could go on and on about many (Karen from Panama; Alex & Karen from the UK; Carina, Katrin, Clemens, Frieda & Paul, all from Germany; Joshua & Jerry, both from New Jersey; John from Toronto; Kurt from Dusseldorf, via Colorado, Solana from Arizona via Utah; Frederica from Denmark, Tanya and Kim from the Seattle area; among others) but I'll highlight just a few new connections that were a huge inspiration, made big impact on me, and will always be a special part of my Camino journey.

First, there's Ben & Alvarado from Ottawa, who I came up shortly before arriving in Sarria. I didn't catch their age, but I'd say they were in their late twenties, early thirties. A young couple doing the Camino isn't that impressive when compared to the thousands of others doing the same; BUT, they were pushing a 3-year old in a stroller, and carrying a 6-month old in a backpack. We chatted for probably an hour on the way into Sarria, and I was super impressed with their positive, can do attitude about the whole thing. It's hard enough for someone to simply carry a backpack along the trail, but now add a stroller, plus a 3-year old, plus a 6-month old, plus all their needs.....I can't imagine! But they were doing it all with a smile and a positive attitude. Buen Camino Ben & Alvarado!

Next, there's Tahitha, 77 years old, from Hamburg, Germany. I actually met Tahitha on my 'rest & explore' day in Sarria; but rather than talk of Tahitha in that blog post, I'll include it here. To this point in my journey, Tahitha is probably the most inspirational person and the most heartwarming story of my entire journey.

While I was sitting at an outside table at a local bar in Sarria, Tahitha passed by on the Camino path, looking for a place to rest and a bite to eat, before checking into her albergue. She passed back and forth a couple of times, then ultimately approached the greeter near the front door. I happened to be sitting nearby, so I invited her to sit at my table. She did and we began a conversation. I learned that she started her journey on a different route than me, but then joined the French Way route in Leon. She told me that she's walked the Camino 20 or more times, starting in the early 1990's. While I couldn't quite understand all the details of her story and her 'why the Camino?' (language was a bit of a hurdle), her inspiration for walking the Camino was based upon the story in the bible where Jesus raised a girl from the dead. She quoted the phrase "girl rising", as if it were her motto. She told me that she's part of an organization that supports & prays for the nuns in a Benedictine Monastery near Hamburg. She asked me if I were religious, and when I told her I consider myself spiritual, but not necessarily religious, she referenced an author by the name of Richard Rohr, who speaks to issues surrounding men & religion. I told her I would look into him.

Based on this, I suspect you're wondering why I consider Tahitha to be the most inspirational person and most heartwarming story of my journey so far? Sure, she's 77, she's walked the Camino 20+ times, solo, and she has an interesting story. But there are hundreds and perhaps thousands of pilgrims with similar stories. So why? I'll tell you why. Tahitha is blind! As Tahitha walked along the Camino path and approached the bar, I noticed that she was walking with a white cane (a walking stick used by a blind person). My first thought was that she can't be walking the Camino?! There was no one with her to help, and there's no way that she can navigate the Camino, with all the varied terrain, let alone the distance! I had to learn more, so I was thrilled she accepted my invitation to sit down and chat over lunch. When I asked her how it's possible for her to navigate the Camino, she was so matter of fact and straightforward with her response. She chooses the French Way because more people do that route, so she can be amongst more people that can help guide her and keep her going in the right direction when she needs the help; and she simply takes her time and goes slow. She can see SOME. If the yellow Camino arrows are prominent enough, she can make them out. I did actually see Tahitha a few times on the trail in the following days, and it was nice to chat and accompany her for a short time. I saw her for likely the last time on a few days after Sarria, but I certainly have thought of her a lot since then, particularly when I'm sore and complaining that the trail is rough-going. Thanks for the inspiration, and Buen Camino Tahitha!

Finally, there's Sue from New York. I had dinner with Sue at our albergue in Foncebadon, the last village before the Cruz de Ferro monument, a special and sacred place along the Camino. The Cruz de Ferro is basically a pole with a cross on top, and underneath is a pile of rocks & stones. The tradition is for pilgrims to bring a stone from home, or gather one along the way, and leave the stones on the pile to signify a laying down of one's burdens, or in memory of a person.

But before I talk of Sue, I'll first talk about my own experience at the Cruz de Ferro. I gathered some stones early in my journey to remember a few people in my life, and a few important causes. My mom & dad, who both died of lung cancer; my wife Sara's mom, who died after a long battle with Parkinson's; and two long-time friends, part of the 'Genius Club', Clark & Koos, who both died too young in their early 50's from cancer. I also laid stones for a few other people, as well as for the charities I'm raising money for (NAPA Center Kids Foundation, Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, and the American Cancer Society). Knowing that laying stones at Cruz de Ferro is a sacred tradition, I had been thinking about it long & hard along the way. Should I write on the stones, what would I say, should I videotape it, if I did could I even think about getting through it without crying?

What I decided is that I was going to videotape a tribute to Clark & Koos, since both had died way too young, and I wanted to share my tribute with the rest of my buddies back home...the Genius Club. In the days leading up to Cruz de Ferro, I actually practiced what I was going to say several times. It was tough to get through it, but I was determined. I even taped myself saying my tribute several times. It was going to be tough, but I was ready.

I woke up at 5am in Foncebadon to get on the trail by 6am. My goal was to be the first pilgrim at Cruz de Ferro, as I knew there would be a stream of pilgrims trying to do the same, and I also wanted to be there as the sun rose. I headed out of my albergue in total darkness, with my headlamp on. It was about a 30 minute walk, and sure enough I was the first one there as a faint light was coming up over the horizon behind me. There was a group of pilgrims not far behind, so I quickly removed my backpack, grabbed my stones, and began to film my tribute as I walked up the pile toward the cross. My head was in a bit of a fog due to the gravity and emotion of the moment. I finished my tribute to Clark & Koos (I almost made it to the end without crying), laid the rest of my stones, took a few pictures, then descended from the cross and pile of stones. I found a nearby bench where I sat down to watch an endless stream of pilgrims lay their stones in succession The scene was surreal and emotional, with the rising sun illuminating the cross, the pile of stones, and the steady stream of pilgrims, each who had come to complete the same ritual, but for their own, unique reason.

After about 30 minutes of watching, I decided it was time to move on. I walked back down to where I had laid my backpack, and was preparing to strap it back on to continue my journey. It was then I noticed that Sue was coming up the hill. Which brings me back to the night before in Foncebadon when I first met Sue.......

I had sat down for dinner at my albergue in Foncebadon after a long day, lots of miles, much of it uphill. I didn't particularly didn't want to eat with anyone, as I was hoping to update my blog, and get to bed fairly early for the next morning at Cruz de Ferro. I already had the first course of my meal in front of me, with computer open. Sue happened to sit down at the table next to mine. She was talking to a fellow pilgrim and asked if he wanted to sit down with her for dinner. He said he had other plans, and declined her offer; so I asked if she wanted to join me. We began to chat, and I learned that she was previously a nurse, but was in transition and thinking about her next career move, or perhaps retirement. Inevitably, our conversation drifted towards 'why the Camino?', and specifically our plans for laying stones at Cruz de Ferro. I told her about the stones I was going to lay; and she told me about hers...that she was going to lay a stone in honor of her boyfriend's son who had committed suicide. It was a difficult story to hear, and I'll admit a few tears were shed. She asked whether I had prepared anything to say, and I told her that I had been practicing; and it was my intention to videotape a tribute to Clark & Koos. She admitted that she hadn't prepared anything, and she wasn't exactly sure what she was going to do....that she was just that kind of a person. Ultimately, dinner was over, we ended our conversation, and both went off to bed to be ready for the morning at Cruz de Ferro. Which brings me back to the moment as I was preparing to put on my backpack to continue my journey, as Sue was coming up the hill.

We greeted each other, and I told her that I had laid my stones, done my tribute and was ready to move on. I noticed that she pulled out a piece of paper with handwriting on it. She told me that she had gone back to her room the previous night, and written a tribute. Then she asked if I would videotape it for her. Wow & gulp. Of course I would. After looking it over and composing herself, she handed me her phone, and read her tribute. It was moving, heartfelt, devastating, and beautiful; and I cried the entire time she was reading it. I was honored that she asked me to videotape it for her. She then went to the the cross at the top of the pile and laid her stone. I stayed back to take a few pictures and wait for her to come back down. After a few minutes, and as she was preparing to leave, I told her I was honored, and that she did an incredible job. Then she thanked me, for videotaping her tribute, and also for inspiring her to prepare something ahead of time, based on our conversation the night before about me preparing for my tribute. Wow, and gulp again. It was very powerful, and something that I'll honestly never forget. Thanks Sue, and Buen Camino! FYI that Sue and I would connect several times after that along the trail.

Day 28 - Leon to San Martin Del Camino

Like most of the big cities, it took a long time to get through the outskirts and into the country. This stretch of the Camino is essentially the end of the Maseta. Long stretches of flat & straight, with not much to the scenery. There was some indication of things to come, but not much. I ended up taking the scenic route, which ended up with me hiking 4-5 miles longer than initially planned, so not a great strategy.

On my way out of Leon. Had to stop and say bye to an old friend.

Just like almost any town, heading out over the bridge and the river.

A welcome rest side stop on the outskirts, for a much needed quick breakfast. Notice the guitar in the background. I got to play a few tunes.

Thanks for the break!

Just on the outskirts of town before heading on the alternate, scenic route. It was pretty with underground bodegas, but in the end proved to be the wrong decision! The extra 4-5 miles wasn't worth it!

Finally out in the country, with Leon in the rear-view mirror.

Some locals out for a walk. Love the saying on the sweatshirt!

Much of the route was along a fairly straight, flat road. Pretty scenery off in the distance, but still much like the Maseta.

Some cool building-side art going through the last of the small villages along the way.

The road to get me back to the main route, from the scenic route. This is what it was like for the last 4-5 miles.

Finally, made it back to my destination of San Martin del Camino, although I was still about a 30minute walk from my albergue.

Once I made it, I was too tired and sick of it to take any more pictures. Wash up, dinner & off to bed.

Day 29 - San Martin Del Camino to Astorga

Definitely, a much better day. Back to beautiful, green, rolling hills & fields after the long, boring Maseta. And some of my favorite roadside stops. To this point in my journey, this was one of my favorite days on the Camino!

Breakfast and getting a started for the day with fellow pilgrims Bernadette and Karen, who I would see frequently along the trail, particularly Karen (in the hat).

Heading out of San Martin del Camino.

Stopped at a small village cafe for a 2nd breakfast, with a few chicken friends.

Heading over another bridge through a beautiful village.

A traffic jam out on the trail in the middle of nowhere, literally. There were a few more cars behind me at the time I took this picture.

The weird mannequin outside Gumersindro's 'donativo' rest stop in Villares de Orbigo.

Gummersindro's 'donativo' rest side stop, with all the pictures & paraphernalia.

Gumersindro slicing ham for me.

Gumersindro and the picture with him wearing the Vikings t-shirt. Notice the cheesehead also!

I ran into this guy several times along the way. He had a transistor radio going with classic rock. It was a great distraction on a hot, sunny day!

Some funky art/greeters along the way.

Another great rest side stop. This place literally had everything, including fresh watermelon, potato chips, hot sauce, olives, fresh fruit, fresh squeezed orange juice, couches, beds, hammocks. All 'donativo'.

The host. I didn't get his name.

My destination, the town of Astorga, down the hill and in the distance.

It was a hot one.

Time for water.

I made it to my albergue, So Por Hoje. A great place, with a great host!

Took a tour of the cathedral. The tour included a virtual reality experience, which was incredible. I was holding onto my seat! Couldn't take pictures of that, so sorry, nothing to share on that. But here are a few obligatory pictures of the 'real' tour.

Looks like a scary movie...

Pilgrim's dinner at our albergue "Po Sor Hoje". We had a fabulous Brazilian dinner cooked by our fabulous host Patricia. Clemens, from the Black Forest in Germany, is directly to my left. I would cross paths with Clemens many times over the next several days, staying at the same albergues, sharing more dinners, and ebbing & flowing along the trail. Clemens' wife Frieda joined him a few days later. The gentleman to the left of Clemens was a huge snorer. He pretty much kept me up all night - I slept 2 hours.

Our fabulous host Patricia.

Time for a good night's rest after a fabulous dinner (although I slept only 2 hours)

Day 30 - Astorga to Foncebadon

The first of 2 big climbs coming up over the next several days. I had fabulous time in Astorga, at So Por Hoje with Patricia as host, but it was time to move on. My goal was to get to the last village (Foncebadon) before Cruz de Ferro. I spent a lot of time thinking about the stones I was going to lay, and what I would say. It was an emotional and somber climb.

Patricia had a fabulous breakfast laid out for us in the morning!

"So Por Hoje"....."Just This Day"

I had to leave a nice note on my way out.

So long Astorga!

Love these doors as I pass through the small villages!

Back to seeing mountains off in the distance. They're coming soon enough!

Lots of lavender along the path.

Interesting & unique albergues? Not really sure.

Cats everywhere.

Another church. Another stork nest.

Crosses everywhere along this trail.

Even in the fences.

Camino wisdom hidden among the oak trees.

A little advice for all my friends who've convinced themselves they just can't retire yet!

More wisdom.

RIP Pilgrim!

Beautiful yellow up the mountain climb.

Finally to my destination for the night. It was a long climb.

The Foncebadon greeting party. Such a beautiful animal!

My albergue.

My room - private. I didn't want to bother anyone as I wanted to wake up VERY early to get to Cruz de Ferro by sunrise.

Dinner with Sue.

Preparing my stones for Cruz de Ferro.....

Our parents.

Koos and Clark.

My charities.

Time for bed. Need to get up early!

Day 31 - Foncebadon to Ponferrada

Up early to lay my stones at Cruz de Ferro, which was very somber, emotional and moving. That experience was then followed by a beautiful mountaintop hike surrounded by colorful wildflowers and incredible panoramic views bathed in sunlight. That was followed by a steep descent down to the town of Ponferrada.

Up early with headlamp on, for the 30-minute walk to Cruz de Ferro.

The sun peaking up the mountain behind me.

Laying my stones.

This picture was taken by my fellow pilgrim Carina. I was the first one there, but she was in a group right behind me, with more following them.

Watching others that followed laying their stones.

Sue laying her stone after I videotaped her tribute.

Leaving Cruz de Ferro.

Wildflowers along the mountaintop trail.

Camino wisdom along the way.

Sunlight hitting the mountaintop windmills.

More warm sunlight in the cool morning.

Breakfast at a trailside rest stop. Nice to sit by a warm fire, with my 2 doggie friends who wanted me to share.

Colors all around.

They made for a nice bouquet.

Which I left it on a trailside memorial.

A tiny mountain village if you look close.

Ponferrada off in the distance.

I lit a candle at a church in a small village.

A steep rocky path down. Glad it wasn't raining!

Gotta love a Beatles reference.

More colorful flowers on the descent.

Making it to the bottom in the beautiful town of Molinaseca. Only a few more miles to go.

Making it to the outskirts of Ponferrada. This is what I felt like after a long day.

Headed to the castle after checking into my albergue and cleaning up.

And of course the cathedral.

Enjoying a local street musician.

And another great dinner. Everything tastes great after 18 miles of hiking!

It was raining while I ate dinner, and this is what I came out to on the way back to my albergue.

Time for bed and a good night's rest.

Day 32 - Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

A beautiful hike on what started out as a clear, cold morning, but ultimately turned warm the last several miles of the hike. Not much elevation, but the heat made up for it.

Passing the sunlit castle on my way out of town.

Sunlit Ponferrada in the rearview mirror.

A familiar sight. Crossing the bridge over the river on the weay out of town.

Some neat artwork leaving town.

And lots of color!

And one last look back into Ponferradda. Seems out of place in the middle of these ancient towns & villages!

Greeters as I enter the first small village along the way.

Turn left.

Visited a small church in what seemed to be an upscale suburb of Ponferrada.

I think they need an organ upgrade.

The last supper painted in the dome.

Upon closer inspection....

I'm not sure there were any Pearle Vision's at the time of the Last Supper?

More colors.

A big breakfast, beer included! I need the energy. And I heard there's water in beer?

Cover the kids' eyes.

Not quite sure about the Olympic reference in the middle of the roundabout, but had to take a picture.

Ran into this couple from Florida, Bruce & Sue-Sue. We chatted for about 45 minutes before they stopped for lunch. I learned that they visited Minnesota once, where they attended game 7 of the 1987 World Series, and watched the Twins beat the Cardinals. Not bad for a one and only visit!

A river flowing underneath a house. How cool is that?

Heading through wine country the last several miles.

It was hot, and I had sore feet!

But it was beautiful!

Finally to my destination, Villafranca del Bierzo.

My Albergue, La Femita.

My sleeping accommodations. That's Illya from Belgium sitting on his bed. This is when my c-pap wasn't working, so unfortunately I kept him up all night with my snoring. Sorry Illya!

Time for bed after dinner. Need another good rest after a long, hot day.

Day 33 - Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

This was a beautiful hike that followed fast, cold mountain streams carved deep in the mountain valleys. It was also the first day where I experienced rain while I hiked. So I got wet. Fortunately, it was warm, and the sun came out in the afternoon to dry things up. All in all, a great day!

My hiking boots ready for another day on the Camino trail.

Saying goodbye to our awesome host, Juan.

"This is your home!"

Gracias Juan!

Heading through the narrow streets on my way out of town.

Crossing the bridge over the river.....again. This time in the rain!

The water was flowing hard over the dam and through the rapids.

Villafranca del Bierzo in the hazy, rain-soaked, rearview mirror.

Following fellow pilgrims on the trail. We walked along this road for most of the morning, but no worries, I think that only 1 or 2 cars passed by the entire time. The sound of rain and the fast flowing streams (and my footsteps) is all I heard.

Getting wet for the first time on my Camino journey, but staying warm.

A late morning rest stop at a roadside cafe. It stopped raining while I ate, so I didn't get wet the rest of the day!

Neat little cottages nestled in the valley up against the mountainside.

Maybe not? This must be the "Alburgue Chuckie". I'm not sure I'd stay here!

Lots of streams flowing off the mountain.

The lush green moss on the waist-high stone walls was incredible.

Approaching a massive bridge structure.

And now underneath it. Yes, it's massive!

Passing through farmland with lots of greeters & onlookers.

Made it to my destination, Las Herrerias.

Fast flowing stream and cow pasture that was out the back of my albergue.

My accommodations. Yes, a private room. Tomorrow was going to be a tough climb!

Went backwards through the village to meet up with a few fellow pilgrims. Glad this guy was sitting there to point me back to my albergue! Hope he doesn't move!

Snacks & a drink with fellow pilgrims. Illya from Belgium (yes, the one I kept up all night with my snoring). And Tanya & Kim from the Seattle-area.

Back to my albergue for a trout dinner with my friends from Germany, obviously not pictured, Clemens, his wife Frieda and Paul.

Time for bed, tomorrow will prove to be the hardest day of my journey yet!

Day 34 - Las Herrerias to Triacastela

Today's hike. Up a steep ascent, then down & up along the top of the mountain peak, then a steep descent down. It was. along hard day. Definitely the toughest one of my journey so far!

One last view of the fast-running stream on a cool, crisp morning, before the brutal climb upwards!

There to cheer me on!

This is about the only picture I took on my way up the first big climb. You can see there's water coming down the trail, as it was still wet from the prior day's rain. It made the climb very treacherous!

Sort of to the first top. Beautiful lush green moss, fields & trees, lit up by the sunlight.

Had to stop for a well-deserved breakfast break.

The climb hadn't taken too much out of me yet. I was feeling pretty good, and this is definitely how I was feeling. I wouldn't want to be in any other place in the world! My attitude would change in the next few hours!

The sun started beating down and the sky was beautiful.

Local farmers tending to their cows.

And tractors driving through the narrow village streets.

Still climbing. The views are beautiful!

Taking a little rest stop just before entering the town of O Cebreiro.

Took a quick detour through the small church.

The Pilgrim's Prayer. Definitely something to think about as I ponder going back home after my journey!

A memorial to fallen pilgrims. Very moving!

A neat little hut on my way out of O Cebreiro.

Onlookers through another small village.

Caught in a traffic jam.

Another short rest. I was thinking I was to the top.

A fellow pilgrim that just kept on chugging. Her steps were literally 2 inches, but she just kept going. She was the tortoise amongst the hares.

More lush green moss on knee-high walls.

On my way up the last upward climb. It was incredibly steep, and I was hurting. I would rather be these guys on the high power lines!

I hope they're getting hazard pay!

A very well-deserved rest. It was all downhill from here. Sounds easy, but it wasn't!

Starting my way down. Triacastela is somewhere off in the distance.

A curious onlooker.

An incredible, gnarled tree along the trail.

And impressive wood piles!

Definitely didn't take many pictures on my way down! Already to Triacastela!

It was a long day, definitely the toughest of my journey!

My accommodations, another private room. I definitely deserved it!

Cheating pilgrims.! They took horses! Ok, I admit it, I tried to do the same but they were all booked.

A tasty dinner with fellow pilgrims. John from Toronto, Renato from Italy, Kurt from Dusseldorf, Jerry from Jersey, Antti from Finland, and Carina from Germany.

Time for bed. Need a good rest after that day!

Day 35 - Triacastela to Sarria

The final day of this phase of my journey, into Sarria, which is where I'll spend an extra 'rest & explore' day, prior to the final push into Santiago. It turned out to be a beautiful day, with a shorter hike, some hills, a lot of neat little villages and stops along the way. It is also the day where shin splints on my right leg started to surface. But all in all, a good day!

A big, beautiful Evergreen greeted me on my way out of town, with the mountainside as a backdrop.

The sky was bright and beautiful with jet tails lit up by the sun,

There she is again!

A greeter in a small village along the way. Looking over his kingdom!

A Camino shell in a reflecting pool.

The sun shining through.

Dogs like this are everywhere along the trail. Never once have I ever felt threatened. For the most part, they ignore the pilgrims and walk right by, if they're not sleeping like this guy.

'Donativo' food & drink in the little Oasis along the trail. This is what caught my attention to turn in. Plus, I could use a little snack. Others would simply pass by. They missed a hidden gem!

The sign greeting you on the way in.

You gotta love a little Zeppelin!

Signs of Camino wisdom all around.

The labyrinth.

The creative lounge.

The gracious hosts of the Oasis. I couldn't get a picture with them both as they were busy doing their own things. I love that I got a good smile & laugh out of her! Buen Camino on your upcoming marriage journey!

Scratching an itch.

At the next rest stop with fellow pilgrims Solana (AZ) and Frederica (Denmark). Both of them are on unique Camino journeys, and we've crossed paths several times along the way. It was Frederica's journal that I wrote in, and I found out that Solana plays the ukulele, so we would have a fun jam session later that night in Sarria!

Ben, Alvarado & their 2 kids from Ottawa along the trail. What an amazing story to walk the Camino with a 3-year old and a 6-month old!

Now that's what I call Camino wisdom!

Entering Sarria. By this time, I started feeling my shin splints, but still pretty mild.

My accommodations, once again a private room. Perfect for 2 nights, including a 'rest & explore' day.

Dinner with fellow pilgrims at a local bar just down the street from my albergue. A lot of familiar faces, some new ones. There's Dan & Mary from Montana in the back. We started in the same albergue in St Jean Pied de Port exactly one month ago!

Free tequila shots.....

And a late night jam session with Frederica and Solana back at our albergue.

"Bye Bye Miss American Pie....."

Time for bed after our final encore. Looking forward to 'rest & explore' tomorrow.