My first night in Pamplona made me excited for what I was going to experience on my 'rest & explore' day. As I said in my previous post, I love nature and the outdoors, but am always energized by the city vibe. Add the fact that my alburgue is right in the heart of Pamplona's historic old city, and there are tons of people, bars, restaurants, and energy...I was excited!
My day started early at 5am, so that I could spend some time to catch up on my blog. It was fun to sit comfortably in the common area and watch all the other pilgrims busily prepare to to continue on their Camino journey, knowing that I was going to spend the day and experience the city. It was a steady stream of "Buen Camino's" as they all went out the front door.
At 8am, I headed to the local market for breakfast. It was a bit early and not too crowded yet, but it was fun watching the vendors set up their stands to be ready for their oncoming customers. I stood at a counter and enjoyed some toasted bread with olive oil, espresso, an apple, and fresh squeezed orange juice. I was in the company of a few older, local gentleman who were reading their papers.
Shortly after that, I made my way to the Cathedral to participate in the 9:30am worship service. Those of you that know me, know that I'm not a particularly religious person, but I simply had to experience a mass in a church that was built during the 14th through 16th centuries! The mass was in Spanish, so I certainly couldn't understand what was being said; however, I was raised Catholic, and it was interesting that I could generally follow what was going on during the mass. There were less than 10 other people in the mass, and I was the youngest by 20 years! I found myself gazing around the massive Cathedral, with all it's incredible relics and artwork. There were 4 priests that conducted the mass, all behind a steel gate on the very deep altar at the front of the church. Just like when I was a little boy going to St John's Church in northeast Minneapolis, there was a heavy dose of incense that permeated the Cathedral, and the whole experience brought back a lot of memories! It was all so medieval! After the mass, I spent some time wandering the Cathedral to get a closer look at the incredible relics and artwork, before being shooed out, as it was time to lock the doors, and convert the Cathedral to paying tourists.
After that, I went back to my alburgue to finish updating my blog and take a short rest.
Early in the afternoon, I headed out the front door of my alburgue to meet up with my new Irish family to further explore the city. I hate to repeat myself, but the vibe was incredible! So many people wandering the narrow cobblestone streets through the bars, restaurants and shops, just so much energy! Our plan was to walk the route of the Running of the Bulls, and ultimately to the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona (bullring), the end point to which the bulls are ultimately lead. I've only seen pictures and videos, but it's hard to imagine how all the massive bulls and hoards of people run through these narrow cobblestone streets at break neck speed! It's amazing more people don't die. We then took a tour of the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona, which I will say was the best tour for the money ($7 Euro) I've ever had in my life. We entered the bullring the same place as the bulls, and were showed an incredible video of the Running of the Bulls, giving the feeling as if we were in the middle of the hoards of people being chased by the bulls. We then entered the coliseum, and were guided by a hand-held phone through every step of the process, including from the time the bulls are bred, through the Running, into the bullring, and the finality of the sacred bullfight. Absolutely incredible. I'll let the pictures do the talking later.
After that, we had a relaxing lunch with pinxtos, wine & beer. We walked backed through the old town and ultimately said my final goodbyes to my Irish family. They truly have been a special part of my Camino experience, and I hope to see them sometime again! I think a trip to Ireland is in my future.
After a short rest at the alburgue, I was ready to go back out on the town where I wandered through a few more bars, sampled a few more pinxtos and wine....then off to bed to be ready for the next day's adventure. I love you Pamplona, and hope to be back!
Several pictures from the day......
Morning at the market. The butcher preparing for his first customers.
A market vendor taking an 8:30am break w/ a beer. I think he could be part of the Genius Club!
I didn't take any pictures during the Cathedral mass, but here are a few from my personal mini tour afterwords. Pictures really can't do it justice!
Much like the shell markers along the Camino route, there are markers along the narrow cobblestone streets to mark the route for the Running of the Bulls.
My Irish friends along the route. I can't imagine angry bulls and thousands of people going full speed during the Running. I'd prefer a seat in the balcony!
The point where the bulls enter the coliseum,
Entering the bullring.
A safe spot from the bulls.
Not a real bull, but looks cool.
Much like the Minnesota duck stamp, there is a contest every year to commission the official poster of the Running of the Bulls.
The area where the bulls enter back into the ring for the bull fight,
The matadors are like rock stars.
This is the room right off the bullring where the matadors pray before they enter the ring. I would too!
As close as I'll ever get. I want to continue to enjoy my retirement.
Me and my Irish brother matadors.
Hemingway was a big fan.
Some pinxto, bread and beer refreshments after the bullfight.
More pinxtos and wine after a rest back at the alburgue.
One last nighttime photo from these beautiful streets of Pamplona. Time for bed to be rested for tomorrow's adventure. I love you Pamplona and hope to be back! Buen Camino!
Reading your excellent blog and talking about it with Brian…are you still wearing the magnet on your ankle😀. Stay healthy and happy on your incredible journey!
Bill, Leah and I didn’t stay for a day in Pamplona like you did. But your photos and narrative made me feel as if I had stayed a day. You got this! Buen Camino!